Understanding Melasma in Men
What is Melasma?
Melasma is a common pigmentary disorder that causes brown, grey-brown or bluish patches on the skin, most often the face. Typically symmetrical, it appears on areas frequently exposed to the sun: the cheeks, forehead, nose, upper lip and chin. Though often associated with women due to its association with hormonal shifts, men account for approximately 10% of melasma cases.
Melasma occurs when melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) produce excess melanin. It is not dangerous, but its chronic nature and visual impact can affect self-esteem and quality of life. Studies show it is more common in individuals with medium to darker skin tones and those with a family history of pigmentation issues.
Why Do Men Get Melasma?
1. Sun Exposure
UV radiation is the most powerful trigger. Men who spend prolonged time outdoors, whether for work, sport, or leisure - accumulate significant sun damage over time. Even driving with the window down can contribute to asymmetric facial pigmentation.
2. Genetics and Skin Type
Men with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI and those of Hispanic, Middle Eastern, South Asian or African descent are more susceptible. Genetic predisposition plays a notable role, with family history often cited.
3. Hormonal Factors
Although hormonal fluctuations in men are less dramatic than in women, low testosterone, thyroid dysfunction, and the use of exogenous hormones (e.g. anabolic steroids or oestrogen therapy for prostate cancer) can play a part.
4. Heat and Visible Light
Research suggests that non-UV wavelengths, such as infrared heat and blue light from screens, may exacerbate melasma. Professions involving heat exposure (e.g. chefs, mechanics, welders) may be at greater risk.
5. Skin Irritation and Lifestyle Factors
Men are more likely to use aggressive shaving products or harsh soaps. This irritation can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or worsen existing melasma. Chronic stress, poor sleep, and certain medications (like anti-epileptics) have also been implicated.
The Skin Barrier’s Role in Melasma
The skin barrier, your body’s first line of defence, is vital in regulating inflammation and protecting against external aggressors. In melasma-prone skin, studies show impaired barrier function and elevated levels of inflammation.
A weakened barrier can make skin more reactive to UV, heat, and skincare actives. This is why men with melasma should avoid harsh exfoliants, over-washing, or soap-based cleansers. A healthy barrier supports any treatment being undertaken and reduces the risk of relapse.
Daily Skincare Routine for Men with Melasma
1. Prioritise Sun Protection
- Use a broad-spectrum SPF 50+ every morning, even on cloudy days
- Choose lightweight, non-greasy formulations better suited for men’s skin
- Reapply regularly during outdoor exposure
- Supplement with hats and sunglasses where possible
2. Cleanse Gently
Use a mild, fragrance-free cleanser to remove sweat, SPF, and pollutants. Avoid bar soaps or physical scrubs.
3. Apply a Barrier-Supportive Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C helps reduce melanin production and neutralise free radicals. Sekkeizu’s AM Serum features Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (a stable Vitamin C derivative), ferulic acid, squalane, ectoin and glycerin — making it ideal for skin under pigment stress. It also adds moisture and hydration making it the perfect all-in-one for men seeking effective simplicity.
Apply 2–3 drops to dry skin in the morning after cleansing, and follow with SPF.
4. Moisturise at Night
After cleansing, apply a soothing, non-comedogenic moisturiser to restore skin barrier lipids and prevent dryness, especially if using active treatments.
Active Ingredients That Help Fade Melasma
Azelaic Acid
- Anti-inflammatory and tyrosinase-inhibiting
- OTC (10%) or prescription (15–20%) in the UK
- Gentle enough to use daily but best to start 3x/week and build up to daily
Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives)
- Promote cell turnover and improve pigmentation
- OTC (e.g. retinol or adapalene 0.1%) or prescription (tretinoin)
- Start 2 nights/week, build tolerance gradually
Tranexamic Acid
- Reduces pigment production and vascular factors
- Often used in serums (2–5%) or low-dose oral form via prescription
- Start slowly and asses your skin's tolerance
Niacinamide
- Vitamin B3; improves tone and reduces pigment transfer
- Clinically, niacinamide is effective and well-tolerated at concentrations between 2% and 5%, with 5% often being the ideal number. While higher concentrations (10% or more) can offer benefits, they may also increase the risk of irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Licorice Extract
These tyrosinase inhibitors and anti-inflammatories are often used in combination formulas.
Prescription Treatments for Stubborn Melasma
Hydroquinone
- Considered the gold standard lightening agent
- Typically used as 4% cream in short courses (8–12 weeks)
- Requires medical supervision due to risks like irritation or rebound hyperpigmentation
Tretinoin and Combination Creams
- Often paired with hydroquinone and corticosteroids in “triple therapy”
- Speeds up results but must be cycled or tapered with dermatologist oversight
Prescription Azelaic Acid
- Safe for long-term use
- Especially useful if you also have acne or rosacea
In-Clinic Treatments for Men
Chemical Peels
- Superficial peels (e.g. glycolic acid 30%) can accelerate pigment lifting
- Require sun avoidance and aftercare
- Best performed by a professional familiar with skin of colour
Lasers (e.g. Q-switched Nd:YAG, Pico)
- Can be effective but carry risk of rebound pigmentation
- Must be done with experienced clinicians
Microneedling
- Improves absorption of melanin-inhibiting serums (e.g. tranexamic acid)
- Stimulates collagen and skin renewal
- Minimal downtime; low risk of post-inflammatory pigment issues
Managing Melasma Long-Term
Melasma is a chronic condition. Even after successful fading, recurrence is common, especially over the summer months.
Maintenance is key:
- Wear SPF daily, year-round
- Maintain antioxidant protection (e.g. Vitamin C serum)
- Use treatment actives 2–3 nights a week as a “top-up”
- Schedule annual dermatology reviews if needed
Melasma isn’t just a cosmetic issue - it reflects inflammation, barrier breakdown and pigment imbalance. For men, treating it effectively means moving past the soap-and-water mindset and adopting targeted, consistent skincare.
By understanding your skin, choosing well-formulated products like the Sekkeizu AM Serum, and seeking expert advice when needed, you can manage melasma and build healthier, stronger skin in the process.